benedictcumberbatch吧 关注：83,518贴子：855,546
【】里面是我的不负责任吐槽，不想看的GN就跳过吧
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半隐半现的坐落在非洲东岸，塞舌尔群岛坚稳得盘踞在热带地区，好像海蓝宝石般广阔印度洋海域中的绿色珠宝。他们以那美丽的海滩闻名于世：白色的沙滩，棕榈树和围绕在周围的黑色花岗岩，都让这些岛屿成为了对天堂定义的绝对诠释。并且，我曾听说过这里曾经是威廉王子夫妇蜜月目的地的选择之一……好了，我怎么能和皇室争论呢？
【那么优美的描写之后居然是八卦么……前面的感觉像south
pacific的开头啊，如此美妙的声音】
靠近岛屿，我发现自己正在刻画最至高无上的印象画面：欢迎来到侏罗纪公园！暗色的海洋给闪烁着绿松石光芒的海岸线和那闻名遐迩的沙滩让开道路，后面，一望无际的绿色热带植物伸展向无尽的花岗岩山山麓的山脚处。这风景让人陶醉。在清晨，第一件打动我的事情就是充满异域风情的和诱人的湿度及气味，提醒我（好像我真的需要一样）我真的已经远离家乡了。
【二缺的描写真的让人仿佛看到塞舌尔的美丽风光啊~~】
我在山坡处的塞舌尔悦榕庄度假村泳池别墅，坐落在马埃岛的西南部，建在石块之上，围绕着树木，拥有敞开的双层露台、巨大的跳水池以及按摩浴池，可以完全不被打扰的从高处欣赏海景。通过百叶窗的推门，完美的为浪漫双人观星浴所打造的下沉式浴缸就位于此。度假村里的一切都已经为浪漫拥吻水平的蜜月准备好了。我很快就学会了一个基础但重要的一课：一定不要一个人来天堂。
【二缺是不是想玉簪姐了。。。描写风光的长难句啊，英语绝对博大精深】
任何你可能需要的东西，从地图到导游，到汽车租赁，到医生，到夜晚出门的好去处和推荐的远足项目，度假村的员工都会乐意帮你安排好。但你绝对不会太想冒险，错过对如史诗般早餐的首次尝试（各样的水果，果汁，糕点，冷肉，熟食早餐，咖喱和当地的特产，你能想象）。我来塞舌尔的主要原因是好好的休息和娱乐，所以我的第一个约会就是和预约的泰式按摩。傍晚时分，享受着水疗的作用，侧卧在阳台上，是最为宁静的时刻之一，我简直不敢相信自己有幸享受这些。接着，好像好的不能再好一样，我第一次见到了狐蝠。这些动物史前般巨大：“欢迎再次来到侏罗纪公园！”突然，天空都布满了被当地人所熟知的“飞狐”，为了晚上的觅食期醒来，然后给岛屿带来最重要的服务，在各处排粪，来确保植物的养分。
【前面那么多好吃的，好吃的，后面看到蝙蝠都要恶心死了好么。。。还补充蝙蝠干什么的。。。外加，二缺你多喜欢侏罗纪啊。。。】
当星星初露，我移步到海滩上，在朦胧中游泳感受按摩后的平静。当我在水中四处游着的时候，一些蝙蝠俯冲后又突然在海面上停滞。围绕在所有这些如同魔法的景象中，我游了一个海湾的距离，当我步步走上浅滩，那些微小浮游生物的光亮从水中照亮了我的每一个动作。这种经历完全不能用言语真正地描绘出来，但它的确是我大部分晚上都在复述的事情之一。我用晚餐圆满的结束了这天，在三个室内餐厅中的一个。这是个全鱼宴，菜单上配了扇贝，浓味鱼汤，和伯鱼（里面填满了新鲜的鱼肉），以及随后的白巧克力冻蛋糕，配以充满激情的水果果冻，淋上树莓汁和黑巧克力。美味得超出了这个世界，当然，价格很合理。
【大晚上翻译这段没饿死啊。。。不知道后面那个树莓汁和黑巧是淋上去的还是另外配的，管他呢，好好吃的样子啊~~~·咳咳，那个夜晚被微生物的光照亮的感觉真的很奇妙啊，二缺当然要话唠的逢人便说咯~~】
我迫不及待的想穿上潜水脚蹼，尽管我被告知，20世纪90年代一个特别严重的厄尔尼诺现象对海洋生物和珊瑚造成了本质的伤害。但是我想自己去探索他们，所以，第二天早上，由于睡过头了，我急冲冲的带着用特百惠盒子装的早餐前往目的地。（餐厅员工的微笑着充满智慧的变通是我住的地方最好的方面之一）带着我的巴拿马草帽，穿着夏威夷衬衫，我变成了对于海外不幸英国人陈词滥调的标榜，所以不奇怪有一个看上去像晒黑的海象一样的闲散人员对我嘲笑，还带着烟味，说：“你是不是怀念你们那的早餐了？哈？”一个荷兰人，Leo，脸上闪过一丝笑容。然后，我的马埃岛潜水探险之旅就开始了。
I was keen to get my flippers on, even though I had been told that a particularly hot El Niño in the 1990s had done substantial damage to the sea life and coral. But I wanted to find out for myself, so the following morning, having overslept, I rushed off with a Tupperware container of breakfast (the smiling resourcefulness of the dining staff was one of the best aspects of my stay). With my Panama hat and Hawaiian shirt, I was a cliché of the hapless Brit abroad, so no wonder a loitering man who looked like a well-tanned walrus gave a smoky laugh: 'Didn't want to you miss your breakfast, then?' Leo, a Dutchman, flashed a smile and my diving adventures on Mahé began.
The joy of being out on the ocean and my first view of the dramatic coastline was transfixing. We headed for a site called Adam's Apple, named for the rock that marks the dive spot. Diving is like meditation: the serenity of the weightlessness, the buoyancy that enables you to swim with the fish , the noise of the slow inhaling and exhaling of pressurised air, the fascinating landscape of coral and rock on the seabed, and the inhabitants of this otherworldly space. Over the next couple of days I swam with giant barracudas, white-tipped reef sharks, humphead parrot fish, chocolate dips, lobsters, turtles, angel fish and stingrays. For my money, the variety of dive sites and sea life in the Seychelles is on a par with both Cuba and Mozambique.
After that I rented a car (the smallest I could find to try to avoid being hit by the careering local buses) and asked for directions to a good local beach. Everyone I met was friendly and willing to help, but some of the directions weren't very reliable. After a winding descent past waterfalls I broke through the cool shade of the forest canopy and the most beautiful golden sunshine afternoon spread before me. Glaud Bay is the most quintessentially laid-back Seychellois experience, a tiny village boasting little more than a church and a bar. After a dip I kicked back with a beer, a plate of delicious grilled fish and a killer creme caramel in the warm sunshine and surveyed the bay, with Bob Marley singing on the radio. Everything felt like it was gonna be alright.
On my way back I stopped at Maria's Rock Café. It's an oddity that must be experienced, a Dali-esque raft built around a granite outcrop and littered with some pretty racy sculptures. The lovely staff, headed by the ever-smiling Maria, bring ingredients for you to cook at your table on paraffin-candle heated rocks. Once the oil starts smoking, you chuck on prawns and chicken and whatever else takes your fancy. The mixture of surf and turf is fresh and, with generous portions of homemade relishes your appetite is the only guide to how much and how quickly the food should be eaten. It's full-on, sweaty, sticky-fingered fun and definitely a child-friendly experience (although you might have to avert their eyes from the more explicit artworks and ask the artist responsible, Maria's Italian boyfriend, not to perform his more risqué magic tricks).
Before I knew it my time at Banyan Tree was up and I saddled up onto a local charter flight that took me straight to my next stop, the island of Praslin. I was to stay at La Reserve resort at the invitation of Peter Mountford, the charming British manager who took over the running of the hotel from his parents, only to be saddled with the unenviable task of rebuilding the whole resort after the 2004 tsunami. He gave me a few home truths about running a hotel in the Seychelles. The daily headache seems to be trying to accommodate the demands of Western diets at the breakfast buffet; apparently fights can break out over boxes of kiwis and other non-indigenous fruits at the local market.
I took off for a day-trip around the nearby island of La Digue. There are regular ferries and once there all you need to get around are your two feet and a rented bike - the tiny island's 2,000 inhabitants are only too helpful with directions and a smile. Following the path to the beaches of Anse Source d'Argent you realise why they are often voted the best in the world: a series of small, golden coves separated by gigantic granite boulders weathered into the most extraordinary shapes by time. Sheltered by a reef, the sea is shallow and calm, perfect for snorkelling and sunbathing. But even in paradise it seems there are possessive tourists with towels and even later in the day there was a race to find a perfect spot. As I basked, a French beauty and her friends passed by, snapping photographs as they went. It was only as her beautiful bottom wiggled out of view that I realised it was in fact Emmanuelle Bé art.
Back on Praslin, I hired a car to explore, stopping for roadside fruit juices, curried fish, a few final night swims and a day-trip to see the deliciously rude coco de mer nut and catch a rare glimpse of a native black parrot. The trek through the well-labelled reservation is best done at an amble as the humidity climbs while you navigate the steep, airless paths. But it is fascinating.
I spent a lazy final day on Anse Lazio beach and with that my time was up. The Seychelles is a paradise on earth and the islanders and their smiling welcome will ensure that you will never want to leave. But don't panic, you can always return. I know I will.
